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Recently I've stumbled upon the TL Mens Fashion Thread and found it pretty interesting to see that there is other SC2 nerds that are into fashion, and also what their specific tastes are. I have, however, found a lack of denim specific talk in the thread as well as a lot of misinformation in the denim discussion within. I don't consider myself to be an expert on denim, but having been obsessed with raw/selvedge denim for the last 8-9 years and working with it both in design (as a hobby), ordering (as a retail buyer/contact for brand reps), and selling (as a retail sales person in a high end boutique) has given me some insight that I think I could impart on the TL community and my hope is that there is more people in the TL community with a passion and knowledge greater than my own that I can learn from! Please don't flood this thread with posts like ''Who pays $300 for a pair of jeans, I can buy mine for $30.00 from American Eagle and look just as good!" , and if you are curious to see WHY people pay that for jeans then read below! You might get converted. The discussion of denim in this thread will primarily be focused around raw and selvedge denim, but other questions are welcomed!
What is Raw Denim?
Raw denim can also be known as dry denim, or unwashed denim and is denim that is basically brand new. It has not undergone any washing or distressing before being put on the store shelf. Raw denim can usually be distinguished from normal denim by it's dark blue coloring, somewhat of a sheen, and often (but not always) a more stiff and rigid feel. Up until the early 70's all denim was raw, and then manufacturing methods and styles changed.
Why do people like raw denim?
http://vimeo.com/40101017# A great video resource from Baldwin Denim
This answer is going to differ on who you talk to, some people just like the look of it, some people like the feel, and others the fact that it provides you with a great personalized look. Normal denim undergoes man ''pre-washes'' and distressing methods before hitting the store shelves, this allows it to feel softer/thinner/lighter and also gives the look of being worn already. Unfortunately this severely lowers the lifetime of your denim, as well as it's ability to be unique to your body, style, and wearing patterns.
I recently had the chance to meet and spend quite a bit of time talking to the owner and founder of Naked and Famous Denim, one of the most popular high end denim companies in the world, a company which as a side note has never purchased an advertisement of any sort. He gave the brilliant analogy of buying a new sports car: "You're in the Lamborghini dealership and you tell the salesmen you want the newest and best car they have on the lot, he responds by telling you that he has just the thing for you. As you walk back to the private showroom he pulls the tarp off of a 2013 AVENTADOR LP 700-4 but something is wrong... The salesmen begins to talk in his excited voice: "Check out this amazing rust around the wheel well, it looks like this car has been driven for years!! And these rips in the drivers seat, it looks as if someone has sat in this car for years, that's actually Marlon Brando's ass print we have in the seat!!'' What would you do? Probably tell the salesman to go fuck himself.
This summarizes how raw denim enthusiasts feel about buying pre-worn/distressed denim. Raw denim will wear and fade in a way that looks natural and personal to it's wearer. Every pair of raw denim after wear will be 100% unique to it's owner, without another pair looking and fitting like it in the world. Not only this but you're actually buying a higher quality product that will last much longer.
What is selvedge denim?
Selvedge denim is a little more difficult to explain, and quite honestly working in the clothing industry I hear the explanation, origin, and significance of selvedge denim butchered more than any other thing, even by people that are in positions where they should definitely know and understand the concept. To understand selvedge denim you need to learn a bit of denim history.
Believe it or not people did not always wear denim casually. Cotton pants and trousers were much more common and denim was introduced as something for manual laborers. It was perfect for work wear as it was sturdy and durable, didn't absorb stains easily and perhaps most importantly didn't develop an odor or smell (this is really important for later! Please remember this!). The main original denim manufacturers were Levi's and Lee and all denim was manufactured on Shuttle Looms. I want to go into more detail on shuttle looms vs modern manufacturing techniques later, as it's quite interesting, but for the sake of this post I'm going to be brief. Essentially shuttle looms make 1 pair of jeans a time, and they always cut from the edge of the 'roll' for the sake of wasting as little denim as possible. This creates this effect on the inside of the denim pantleg :
Selvedge literally just means ''Self Edge''. Those edges you are seeing with the red line within the white are each natural edge of the denim ''roll''. The looms seal off each piece of fabric automatically and that way it prevents unraveling/fraying (Thanks andyrau). ''Back in the day'' Levi's were characterized by the red line, while Lee's were just white and later changed to yellow.
So why did Levi's and Lee stop making selvedge denim? Eventually pop icons like Marlon Brando and James Dean started wearing denim as a staple part of their wardrobe, people wanted to wear it as a casual piece and not just for work wear. Levi's and thought that this was not a trend that was going to end soon, and to keep up with soaring demand they needed to upgrade their manufacturing process. They got rid of the shuttle looms and manufacturing method and replaced it with new machinery that could manufacture jeans at an exponentially faster rate, but many people claim that this was at the cost of quality. Where did all the shuttle looms go? The Japanese bought them all, and to this day almost all original shuttle looms that are still functioning reside in Japan (just one of the many reasons Japanese denim is considered to be the best in the world; another amazing topic for discussion).
So that's all well and good ..but why is selvedge denim actually better? This one is a bit more controversial but generally there is 3 common answers you'll hear, I'll save the best for last.
1) The ''self-edge'' looks pretty cool when you flip the cuffs of your jeans up, which has become more popular over the last few years. This is not a very solid reason as it's open to opinion.
2) The ''self-edge'' holds up better, makes a stronger bond and is less likely to fray,etc. Again this is somewhat true but a fairly minor reason and not enough to justify paying more a pair of jeans for most people.
3) Lastly, the most important reason, is many (myself included) believe that a lot has been lost in the art of denim manufacturing. For example, people value handmade leather materials and a home cooked meal, but don't give a 2nd thought to mass produced denim that is going to last you 1 or 2 years because someone has already put it through a large amount of artificial wear and tear. The self edge on denim is a way to tell that something has been carefully crafted in an old art form, and more than likely is of higher quality. A good comparison I've heard is a classic automatic watch vs a modern battery powered Casio that can be produced for a fraction of the cost.
COMMON MISCONCEPTIONS :
-Selvedge denim is not ''salvaged denim'', it's not recycled or anything of the sort.
-Selvedge denim is not necessarily always a better quality denim, there is good/bad selvedge denim just like anything else on earth, and there is good quality denim that is not selvedge. It's just a good metric for identifying denim quality.
You said Japanese denim is better, why?
This is subjective (somewhat) but it is pretty much universally accepted that the best denim in the world comes from Japan. Part of this is already mentioned above in regards to Japan having most of the shuttle looms in the world, but there is more to it.
For starters, the dyeing process used in most of Japan is different than the rest of the world. Most of the world has adopted ''vat dyeing'' techniques, which is for all intents and purposes exactly how it sounds, throwing the fabric into vats of indigo and taking them out. Japan on the other hand predominantly uses a different method referred to as ''rope dyeing'' where the threads of the denim yarn are twisted into a rope and then subjected to repeated ''dipping'' in the indigo as well as periods of oxydization.
Why is rope dyeing better? Vat dyeing basically puts the entire thread into a vat for an extended period of time which allows the indigo to fully penetrate the entire fabric, in rope dyeing the indigo never full penetrates the thread and thus the inner most parts of the thread are left white. This creates a denim that will allow an easier fade as well as a more natural and beautiful looking effect on the denim. There are other unique styles and dyeing processes used to create different effects (Hank dyeing for instance) but rope dyeing is considered the best for a good traditional look.
Another reason Japanese denim is considered to be better, which may sound ridiculous, is that the water in Japan (especially in some of the towns/cities that a lot of denim is manufactured in) has very unique properties which over the years have proved to work well for creating beautiful denim, and if you were to ask a Japanese denim worker why Japanese denim is the best their answer would almost assuredly be their water (I have heard this from many people who have been to Japanese denim mills and asked this very question).
Lastly, many denim mills in Japan are very very old, and as such have mastered their craft. The Japanese culture is famous for hard work and the dedication to mastering a craft, and denim is no exception, the Japanese people have truly mastered the art of denim manufacturing. The proof is in the pudding, the term ''Raw Japanese denim'' is used as a selling feature by the majority of high end denim companies in the world.
Ok, I'm sold, I want some good selvedge/raw jeans, what should I get?!
That is entirely up to you, there is such a wide variety of brands, styles, fits, price points, etc. and that's what makes getting into the world of high end denim an amazing and addicting venture. I will compile a list of brands that I have come to appreciate and as the thread / discussion grows hopefully we can build that list as well as have some more information regarding fits/styles. As for now I will only comment on styles that I've owned
Naked and Famous Naked and Famous is perhaps one of the biggest rising stars in the raw/selvedge denim world despite never buying a single advertisement for their brand, and for good reason. Naked and Famous use only Japanese denim and all the jeans are cut and sewn in Quebec, Canada. Sold all over the world, Naked and Famous are perhaps most reasonably priced denim that you can find with Japanese raw selvedge jeans starting as low as $130.00. N&F is always coming out with new whacky and fun idea's like scented denim, glow in the dark denim, etc. but their staples are good, basic, classic pieces with very minimal design. There is currently 3 basic fits in N&F denim that you can find more info about on their site: Weird Guy, Skinny Guy, Super Skinny Guy with the Weird Guy being the most popular and versatile. Once you find your size in one fit you'll be able to find a million different styles and colors, etc. in that fit making purchasing easy PROS Price is unbeatable, quality, variety. Made in Canada! CONS Some people have issues finding a good fit, really deep front pockets which can at times be annoying but is pretty minor. Personal Pick Skinny guys!
Nudie Jeans Co. Based in Sweden, Nudie's are often the entry point for a lot of people into the raw denim world. With their simple and iconic pocket stitch and their patented contrast orange stitching Nudies have become a staple in the high end denim world. Nudies will cost you a bit more on average than Naked and Famous but are still pretty reasonable in price, if you want to get into selvedge raw Nudies you'll have to get pretty high, but the basic non selvedge raw denim from Nudie is great and popular. PROS Easier to break in than most raw denim for raw denim newbs, known for their great fits! A lot of organic denim styles/transitioning to be fully organicCONS The inevitable Nudie crotch blowout that happens to everyone usually around the 2 year mark. Have heard reps claim it's because in Sweden people tend to wear their jeans higher and the lower wear of NA people causes an unnatural tension on the crotch when walking. Personal Pick Thin Finn Dry Black coated, Organic Dry Ecru Thin Finn/Slim Jim /w white pocket stitch
Baldwin Denim A homegrown brand from Kansas City, Missouri. Baldwin is quickly becoming one of my favorite brands. They just make nice stuff and have grown their line a lot over the last few years. A really basic look combined with a good, mature fit collection make this a brand to check out. Prices similar to Nudies but without the same known problem of crotches blowing out as frequently. All jeans made in Los Angeles with materials from primarily White Oak Mills in the USA (very good quality, oldest denim mill in the USA) and Japan. Pros Made in the USA, great fit selection. CONS Still a smaller brand, not as easy to get for some people in the world, priced well but not as cheap as some similar brands.Personal Pick The 77
APC Denim
Neuw Denim Just got given my first pair of these in the Iggy Skinny fit, extremely comfortable from the beginning with a very minimal but detailed design incorporating things I haven't seen before (darts around leg openings). Almost no breakin time, excited to update with more info. Decent price point
Flathead Denim
Samurai Denim
Ironheart Denim
3sixteen Denim
Momotaro Jeans
Pure Blue Japan
Am going to be adding a lot more! If you want to learn more about denim in the mean time I strongly suggest Rawr Denim ! Really hope we can spark some good discussion and that we can get some people into Raw denim that otherwise wouldn't be
THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS, A LOT OF INFORMATION TO ADD SO I'LL SLOWLY BE ADDING/REFINING IT!
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On December 17 2012 17:09 Juliette wrote: As a suggestion, list the manufacturers by price point and cuts ^^.
Am going to go into more detail on that as I go, but wanted to get it up and start discussion :p
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Naked and Famous, Dark Indigo Weird Guys right here, after 2 years the fades look sick. Most worthwhile clothing purchase I've ever made.
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Aotearoa39261 Posts
There's no need to reserve posts.
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Dior Homme imo has the best cut for skinny/tall guys with the 17.5mm and the 19 are great with a bit more muscle/fat on their legs
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On December 17 2012 17:28 excal wrote: Dior Homme imo has the best cut for skinny/tall guys with the 17.5mm and the 19 are great with a bit more muscle/fat on their legs
I always thought the Dior Homme pricepoint was too high for something that didn't offer enough in terms of fabric quality, etc. but maybe I'm wrong. I've heard before they have a good fit, what else is it you like about them?
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Please don't flood this thread with posts like ''Who pays $300 for a pair of jeans, I can buy mine for $30.00 from American Eagle and look just as good!" , and if you are curious to see WHY people pay that for jeans then read below! You might get converted. So I read the whole thread, you didn't come close to converting me to buy $300 jeans. I don't care if you told me my $30 jeans were made from the skin of fetuses and laced with strychnine. Maybe I will consider it when I become a stock broker in another life or something.
But nice write up anyway.
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On December 17 2012 17:39 jdseemoreglass wrote:Show nested quote +Please don't flood this thread with posts like ''Who pays $300 for a pair of jeans, I can buy mine for $30.00 from American Eagle and look just as good!" , and if you are curious to see WHY people pay that for jeans then read below! You might get converted. So I read the whole thread, you didn't come close to converting me to buy $300 jeans. I don't care if you told me my $30 jeans were made from the skin of fetuses and laced with strychnine. Maybe I will consider it when I become a stock broker in another life or something.
Realistically you probably don't pay as little as $30.00 for jeans, I think even American Eagle and GAP jeans are $50-70 or more now.. how long does a pair of those usually last you ? Before I got into buying high end denim I found myself buying jeans every 6 months and sometimes more often. I've had the same pair of Nudies for over 6 years now, in year 3 I had to do a preventative crotch repair and they cost me $200 Canadian originally. My $140 Naked and Famous I bought in 2009 still look as good as new and have faded beautifully.
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On December 17 2012 17:39 jdseemoreglass wrote:Show nested quote +Please don't flood this thread with posts like ''Who pays $300 for a pair of jeans, I can buy mine for $30.00 from American Eagle and look just as good!" , and if you are curious to see WHY people pay that for jeans then read below! You might get converted. So I read the whole thread, you didn't come close to converting me to buy $300 jeans. I don't care if you told me my $30 jeans were made from the skin of fetuses and laced with strychnine. Maybe I will consider it when I become a stock broker in another life or something. Well the best part is that you don't really have to be converted. A few points though:
- 300 is a relatively high price point, especially for those new to buying slevedge. Entry level raw denim can be had for as little as $90 (before sales) and range from $130 (N&F) to $180 (APC).
- http://www.gap.com/browse/product.do?pid=889082&locale=en_US&kwid=1&sem=false&sdReferer= - http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/levis-501-straight-leg-jeans-rigid-selvedge/3351069
- I don't think the OP stresses the denim quality very much. Compared to a lot of cheaper/low quality jeans, raw denim is meant to withstand beatings because its meant to fade. The quality you get for your money is much higher (but as said, not always), and over time you spend less $$ per wear. Which leads into
- It's not for everyone. Not everyone cares about how they look, nor do you have to spend a lot of money to look good. It's just an option. I don't think I need to justify why investing in good clothes is a really good idea, it's not only spending a ton of money on regular things but building a collection. Doesn't make wearing $30 dollar jeans anything less. I still wear my $40 levis pretty often, even though I'm still breaking in my APCs.
^^
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After reading this post, I'll never see a pair of jeans the same way again
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Thanks for an informative post. I'm never excited about clothing, but I'm a little enticed by snobbery, and swayed mightily by quality. Will probably try out some N&F soon.
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On December 17 2012 17:58 krndandaman wrote:Show nested quote +On December 17 2012 17:46 JLew wrote:On December 17 2012 17:39 jdseemoreglass wrote:Please don't flood this thread with posts like ''Who pays $300 for a pair of jeans, I can buy mine for $30.00 from American Eagle and look just as good!" , and if you are curious to see WHY people pay that for jeans then read below! You might get converted. So I read the whole thread, you didn't come close to converting me to buy $300 jeans. I don't care if you told me my $30 jeans were made from the skin of fetuses and laced with strychnine. Maybe I will consider it when I become a stock broker in another life or something. Realistically you probably don't pay as little as $30.00 for jeans, I think even American Eagle and GAP jeans are $50-70 or more now.. how long does a pair of those usually last you ? Before I got into buying high end denim I found myself buying jeans every 6 months and sometimes more often. I've had the same pair of Nudies for over 6 years now, in year 3 I had to do a preventative crotch repair and they cost me $200 Canadian originally. My $140 Naked and Famous I bought in 2009 still look as good as new and have faded beautifully. Any pics? The form fitting part intrigued me most because I have a weird body for a guy- big ass, girly calves/slim legs while having an athletic body-type overall. Naturally I've had a hard time finding jeans that fit well and oddly enough the two jeans I have that fit me best are from old navy...and they don't last very long lol. Dunno whether to try raw denim after reading this... seems pricy to try.
I sell lots of jeans in a day and every time a guy tells me they have girly calves or skinny legs I refer them to the Naked and Famous skinny guy. I actually have a big waist/ass and relatively normal sized calves/ankles and this fit works for me. Keep in mind because they are raw denim they are going to stretch A LOT (please watch the Baldwin video linked in the OP for information regarding this) You should buy them so that they just barely fit. Another fit I like for this is the Nudie Thin Finn, it's got a bit of a saggier bum but a good fitted leg.
I will try and get pictures of my jeans but they won't be much good without ''before'' pictures as reference. I'm sure you can find lots of before/afters on the internet with an easy search. Any raw denim I get from now on I'm going to do before/after with them. I would find a good boutique/denim store near you and go find a pair that fits for a price you're willing to pay. Like others have said you can start as low as $90-$100 and go up to...whatever price you want really. Naked and Famous is a good brand though cause you can probably stay between $120-$160 which honestly isn't a big jump up from more standard priced denim.
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This was a surprisingly interesting read, thx for that op, I love to learn something new everyday.
These jeans are not for me however, that's some insane prices. I spent 10$ on my last pair and it will probably stay like this. Yes, I do come from a third world country.
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On December 17 2012 18:16 krndandaman wrote:Show nested quote +On December 17 2012 18:09 JLew wrote:On December 17 2012 17:58 krndandaman wrote:On December 17 2012 17:46 JLew wrote:On December 17 2012 17:39 jdseemoreglass wrote:Please don't flood this thread with posts like ''Who pays $300 for a pair of jeans, I can buy mine for $30.00 from American Eagle and look just as good!" , and if you are curious to see WHY people pay that for jeans then read below! You might get converted. So I read the whole thread, you didn't come close to converting me to buy $300 jeans. I don't care if you told me my $30 jeans were made from the skin of fetuses and laced with strychnine. Maybe I will consider it when I become a stock broker in another life or something. Realistically you probably don't pay as little as $30.00 for jeans, I think even American Eagle and GAP jeans are $50-70 or more now.. how long does a pair of those usually last you ? Before I got into buying high end denim I found myself buying jeans every 6 months and sometimes more often. I've had the same pair of Nudies for over 6 years now, in year 3 I had to do a preventative crotch repair and they cost me $200 Canadian originally. My $140 Naked and Famous I bought in 2009 still look as good as new and have faded beautifully. Any pics? The form fitting part intrigued me most because I have a weird body for a guy- big ass, girly calves/slim legs while having an athletic body-type overall. Naturally I've had a hard time finding jeans that fit well and oddly enough the two jeans I have that fit me best are from old navy...and they don't last very long lol. Dunno whether to try raw denim after reading this... seems pricy to try. I sell lots of jeans in a day and every time a guy tells me they have girly calves or skinny legs I refer them to the Naked and Famous skinny guy. I actually have a big waist/ass and relatively normal sized calves/ankles and this fit works for me. Keep in mind because they are raw denim they are going to stretch A LOT (please watch the Baldwin video linked in the OP for information regarding this) You should buy them so that they just barely fit. Another fit I like for this is the Nudie Thin Finn, it's got a bit of a saggier bum but a good fitted leg. I will try and get pictures of my jeans but they won't be much good without ''before'' pictures as reference. I'm sure you can find lots of before/afters on the internet with an easy search. Any raw denim I get from now on I'm going to do before/after with them. I would find a good boutique/denim store near you and go find a pair that fits for a price you're willing to pay. Like others have said you can start as low as $90-$100 and go up to...whatever price you want really. Naked and Famous is a good brand though cause you can probably stay between $120-$160 which honestly isn't a big jump up from more standard priced denim. Thanks for the info. But I'm a bit wary of identifying as "skinny" cuz I only am below my thighs. My thighs are above average size and upperbody is bigger than lower. Still go for skinny?
You basically just described my body, although it's hard to say for sure if they would fit. Like I said, I would find a local retailer and go try some on. My advice to you though is don't have your traditional jean size too stuck in mind, be willing to try a couple sizes up or down to find what feels best, raw denim is very different and a lot of people change sizes when going into brands like Naked and Famous. Just go in ready to try a bunch of jeans on and leave with one that feels right, Skinny Guy is just my suggestion, you could like a Weird Guy as well for all I know.
Edit : Please let us know how you make out!
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I love jeans but I also love to dance in them so raw doesn't do it for me. The fabric is too stiff and not stretchy enough for me to move around. That's Why I love prewash jeans because they are stretchy enough and also they usually have 2% elastane so even better. I wear my raw denim when going out though ^^
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What's with the length of the Naked and Famous jeans? Do they all come in the same and you gotta hem them yourself?
Got 3 pairs of Nudies myself (One's a khaki, though) since I couldn't find any jeans that fit me anywhere else (tall and skinny as fuck)... when I go to a shop they are either too wide or too short. Now that I now the fits and sizes of the nudies I just tend to stick with those...
got one Thin Finn Organic Ecru Embo (i think) which should be about 1,5-2 years now and a Tape Ted organic dry grey which is about 1 year old now. the fading on them didn't turn out very heavy, though. can't wear them all day since my work requires more formal clothes :/
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On December 17 2012 18:16 krndandaman wrote:Show nested quote +On December 17 2012 18:09 JLew wrote:On December 17 2012 17:58 krndandaman wrote:On December 17 2012 17:46 JLew wrote:On December 17 2012 17:39 jdseemoreglass wrote:Please don't flood this thread with posts like ''Who pays $300 for a pair of jeans, I can buy mine for $30.00 from American Eagle and look just as good!" , and if you are curious to see WHY people pay that for jeans then read below! You might get converted. So I read the whole thread, you didn't come close to converting me to buy $300 jeans. I don't care if you told me my $30 jeans were made from the skin of fetuses and laced with strychnine. Maybe I will consider it when I become a stock broker in another life or something. Realistically you probably don't pay as little as $30.00 for jeans, I think even American Eagle and GAP jeans are $50-70 or more now.. how long does a pair of those usually last you ? Before I got into buying high end denim I found myself buying jeans every 6 months and sometimes more often. I've had the same pair of Nudies for over 6 years now, in year 3 I had to do a preventative crotch repair and they cost me $200 Canadian originally. My $140 Naked and Famous I bought in 2009 still look as good as new and have faded beautifully. Any pics? The form fitting part intrigued me most because I have a weird body for a guy- big ass, girly calves/slim legs while having an athletic body-type overall. Naturally I've had a hard time finding jeans that fit well and oddly enough the two jeans I have that fit me best are from old navy...and they don't last very long lol. Dunno whether to try raw denim after reading this... seems pricy to try. I sell lots of jeans in a day and every time a guy tells me they have girly calves or skinny legs I refer them to the Naked and Famous skinny guy. I actually have a big waist/ass and relatively normal sized calves/ankles and this fit works for me. Keep in mind because they are raw denim they are going to stretch A LOT (please watch the Baldwin video linked in the OP for information regarding this) You should buy them so that they just barely fit. Another fit I like for this is the Nudie Thin Finn, it's got a bit of a saggier bum but a good fitted leg. I will try and get pictures of my jeans but they won't be much good without ''before'' pictures as reference. I'm sure you can find lots of before/afters on the internet with an easy search. Any raw denim I get from now on I'm going to do before/after with them. I would find a good boutique/denim store near you and go find a pair that fits for a price you're willing to pay. Like others have said you can start as low as $90-$100 and go up to...whatever price you want really. Naked and Famous is a good brand though cause you can probably stay between $120-$160 which honestly isn't a big jump up from more standard priced denim. Thanks for the info. But I'm a bit wary of identifying as "skinny" cuz I only am below my thighs. My thighs are above average size and upperbody is bigger than lower. Still go for skinny?
My only working solution is loose fit. I do want to wear straight fit but I just cant pull it off, or maybe the image I have in my head is way off.
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On December 18 2012 04:07 FliedLice wrote: What's with the length of the Naked and Famous jeans? Do they all come in the same and you gotta hem them yourself?
Got 3 pairs of Nudies myself (One's a khaki, though) since I couldn't find any jeans that fit me anywhere else (tall and skinny as fuck)... when I go to a shop they are either too wide or too short. Now that I now the fits and sizes of the nudies I just tend to stick with those...
got one Thin Finn Organic Ecru Embo (i think) which should be about 1,5-2 years now and a Tape Ted organic dry grey which is about 1 year old now. the fading on them didn't turn out very heavy, though. can't wear them all day since my work requires more formal clothes :/
They all come in standard sizes.. Skinny Guys (which it kinda sounds like you might be) are 37'' inseam, Weird Guys are 35'' inseam, and Slim Guys are 34'' (they actually aren't manufacturing slim guys anymore I believe) but introduced a new ''Super Skinny'' which I can't remember the inseam of offhand. It's important to keep this in mind when trying them on for obvious reasons.
Honestly Nudie jeans get a lot of flack from denim enthusiasts, and I was somewhat on the edge about putting them in the thread as they have become a brand that is more known for their name and pocket stitching than for their denim quality, which is the opposite of what raw/selvedge denim enthusiasts look for which is just denim quality. None the less I do know a lot of denim enthusiasts who still own/wear Nudies (sometimes as a guilty pleasure) because the reality of it is that they fit great and still use better denim than most mainstream denim companies (Diesel, True Religion, all that ugly shit), and the look of raw denim with that contrast orange stitch is imo beautiful. It's a GREAT first pair of raw denim for anyone.
I have a lot of raw denim from ''cooler''' brands but honestly my Nudies still fit me the best which is why I'm about to buy my 6th pair, I don't care if someone tells me I should try Pure Blue Japan's or Momotaro's instead..I have weird legs and I can count on Nudies to fit me well. I also think it's cool how hard they are pushing the organic denim. That being said I encourage you to branch out and try other brands, if you like Nudie's I think you'll love Baldwins, as the 77's have a very dropped yoke similar to your Thin Finns (and Tape Ted's to a lesser extent).
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How are you supposed to store jeans you're still breaking in?
I've been hanging it by the back belt hook and i feel like its stretching out out because the front sags down. Might be too late...
I feel like folding it up like some of my other pants won't work though.
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On December 20 2012 18:15 Juliette wrote: How are you supposed to store jeans you're still breaking in?
I've been hanging it by the back belt hook and i feel like its stretching out out because the front sags down. Might be too late...
I feel like folding it up like some of my other pants won't work though.
I don't think it matters too much, a lot of boutiques will display their denim hanging by the back belt loop so I'm sure it's not that bad..I sometimes fold mine and stack or with my first pair of N&F indigo's I just made of point of not taking care of them really. I wore them almost everyday for like 6 months and just flung them off before I went to bed on the floor and they turned out awesome. Like other things related to the treatment of raw denim I think you should just do what you do and not worry too much about it, it's gonna end up reflecting how you treat it anyway. This is why I really dislike when I hear sales people or self-proclaimed experts telling people specific ways to treat their pants "You HAVE to wait exaclty 6 months!'', ''You HAVE to presoak in a lukewarm bathtub..''' All of these rules ruin the fun of raw denim for me, so for every pair I get I try something a bit different.
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Ah the only reason i worry is because i think its messing with the fit. Ill post pics later but theres some in MFT that show how it makes my legs look stumpy. Either i should have sized down one more or the seat got streched in the back
Oh well~
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i washed my sugarcanes a couple months ago: http://i.imgur.com/j1EjS.jpg
i used to have a pair of apcs too but i gave them to my ex. they looked nice but just generically faded apcs. she has a pair of samurai geishas (which are sick) nd some nudies and some pbjs and a pair of 45rpm nandos too. all these pairs are rly nice but my fav is the geishas because the denim is sooooo nice. the pbjs she has arent the normal pbj denim (she got the pbj ladies or something i forget) so they werent really that slubby or anything and we were kind of dissappointed but wwowww that fit.
you shouldn't really worry about how to store your denims or whatever. im a firm believer in the philosophy that their are just jeans so just do whatever.
i think i might have to repair my sugarcanes because the inside seam by the crotch is getting messed up but i dunno how and im too lazy to look so ive been mostly wearing some old 501xxs. been thinking about gettin a new pair of jeans but i dunno what to get O_O..
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Well this thread is definitely not for me. I'm fine with denim and I wear jeans most of the time when I go out, but I almost always change into something more comfortable immediately when I get home.
Hilariously, when I was young (maybe 8 and younger) I would never wear jeans except for when I was forced to on Sundays for church. I would cry every week, I seriously hated it sooooo much O_o
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On December 21 2012 10:43 AiurZ wrote:i washed my sugarcanes a couple months ago: http://i.imgur.com/j1EjS.jpgi used to have a pair of apcs too but i gave them to my ex. they looked nice but just generically faded apcs. she has a pair of samurai geishas (which are sick) nd some nudies and some pbjs and a pair of 45rpm nandos too. all these pairs are rly nice but my fav is the geishas because the denim is sooooo nice. the pbjs she has arent the normal pbj denim (she got the pbj ladies or something i forget) so they werent really that slubby or anything and we were kind of dissappointed but wwowww that fit. you shouldn't really worry about how to store your denims or whatever. im a firm believer in the philosophy that their are just jeans so just do whatever. i think i might have to repair my sugarcanes because the inside seam by the crotch is getting messed up but i dunno how and im too lazy to look so ive been mostly wearing some old 501xxs. been thinking about gettin a new pair of jeans but i dunno what to get O_O..
Ahh 45rpm's are what I've been wanting to buy forever but don't want to do it without trying them on. How do you/she like them? I'm going to Japan this year and hope to be able to buy a few pairs of brands that are harder or impossible to find in person in North America, more specifically Samurai and 45rpm.
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I have a question, and I feel that the two guys in the video kind of glossed over a possible answer to this but I was wondering if maybe you could elaborate a little more. I'm just curious about sanitation. I don't wash my regular jeans as much as my underwear, but I'm curious as to how not washing your pants at all except for twice a year is acceptable from just the cleanliness perspective of all the stuff you naturally accumulate on your clothes on a daily basis. Surely 100 days of wearing the same... anything... can't be good? Or am I completely missing something here? Thanks in advance
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Theres studies showing that bacteria levels are the same as new even after a year of use as long as you wear underwear
The outside dirt buildup doesnt go inside because denim i guess
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oooo thanks for this post, I was going to get myself a pair of nicer jeans but I had no idea why they are more pricy, this is really informative
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On December 21 2012 16:27 Juliette wrote: Theres studies showing that bacteria levels are the same as new even after a year of use as long as you wear underwear
The outside dirt buildup doesnt go inside because denim i guess
Is that the case with all denim? Or only because this is raw denim?
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Best denim jeans I have owned are Lee Rough Riders. The denim was so thick and delicious, that I am a bit saddened I only owned one pair in my life.
I have owned others like Levi's, other Lee, and Gant, and no one came close to the Rough Riders.
I have used denim most of my life - both as pants and as jackets, but I enjoy other fabrics more now.
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Aren't your Nudie recommendations only offered in non-selvage? I have a pair of Organic Ecru Thin Finn and never saw them offered in selvage denim.
Right now I'm still wearing a pair of ~1yr old Nudie Average Joe Context Exclusives. I really like them. I also have a 1yr break in pair of Regular Ralfs and a 1yr break in Thin Finn (which turned out bad, I blame the non-selvage denim.) Also an 8mo break in pair of APC New Standards. Then about 20+ various pairs of pre-washed Nudies, 7FAM, Diesel, April, etc etc.
I'm eyeballing getting a pair of Momotaro but I haven't been able to find a cut I like so I may just go with a pair of Samurai. Most the Momotaros tend to be cut like the APCs and I found those extremely uncomfortable. I need a wider thigh and a lower rise. Then the ones that are cut that way seem to only come in slubby denim and I don't like that look >_<
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On December 21 2012 22:43 DarkPlasmaBall wrote:Show nested quote +On December 21 2012 16:27 Juliette wrote: Theres studies showing that bacteria levels are the same as new even after a year of use as long as you wear underwear
The outside dirt buildup doesnt go inside because denim i guess
Is that the case with all denim? Or only because this is raw denim? http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/03/raw-denim-safe-to-wear-over-long-time/
dunno if its only raws but i would assume so because of the weave of the denim
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On December 22 2012 08:57 Juliette wrote:Show nested quote +On December 21 2012 22:43 DarkPlasmaBall wrote:On December 21 2012 16:27 Juliette wrote: Theres studies showing that bacteria levels are the same as new even after a year of use as long as you wear underwear
The outside dirt buildup doesnt go inside because denim i guess
Is that the case with all denim? Or only because this is raw denim? http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/03/raw-denim-safe-to-wear-over-long-time/dunno if its only raws but i would assume so because of the weave of the denim
I don't think a denim being raw or not would affect the amount of actual bacteria it absorbs very much, the point of the study is to show that there is nothing you're going to absorb into your denim at the 6 month mark that wasn't there after 2 weeks in terms of bacteria (similar to saying there isn't anymore bacteria on the candy you dropped on the ground after 20 seconds than after 10). This is mostly to put down any of the lame ''You don't wash your jeans for a year?!?! Gross!!'' comments and not actually that relevant in the argument of raw denim itself.
As stated earlier denim was originally designed as a work pant so whether the denim is raw or has been predistressed,etc. won't really affect how much bacteria it absorbs. The benefit that raw denim has over non-raw is in terms of how it can hold up aesthetically to going without wash. Because the denim still has a bit of a tighter weave as well as more indigo in it somewhat acting as a coating (which also comes off as you wear it) it just doesn't absorb stains as much, a sidenote that I would imagine has an effect is that most raw denim is quite dark so you're not going to see stains,etc. on it like you would a lighter prewashed denim. With most prewashed denim you can't go as long without washing because it will show stains,etc. but the bacteria level shouldn't be any different in raw denim I don't imagine. Either way most people wash their jeans too much, even a prewashed pair of jeans doesn't need to be washed every few wears (I know people who wash their jeans after every 1-2 wears, and they wonder why they get wrecked so fast or lose their form).
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My apcs had their first spill today t_t
6 months though, i'll edit some pictures in a bit
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bought my 2nd pair of raw denim last week. Naked and Famous Left Hand Twill
fadezz..hopefully
+ Show Spoiler +
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So I'm considering buying a pair of Nudie jeans and I was wondering if all the Nudie jeans are in fact raw denim because some of them looked distressed or can jeans be distressed and still be raw? How do black raw denim jeans tend to look after wear? Lastly, I naturally am around a 27/30 in jeans... is it correct to go down to a 26/30 when buying raw denim generally?
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- They have washes that aren't raw.
- Depending on the dye - sulfur will become greyish, overdye indigo will be a deeper blue then regular indigo iirc.
- it depends on the maker. some jeans true to size, some require a size down.
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Do you know if Nudie Jeans require a size down typically? Thx for the help.
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Not personally. Try here. Either by searching or just asking - it'd be a bit of a better resource ^_^.
Are you buying online? You can always try to look for a stockist in your area and try some on before buying. Although, that wouldn't help you very much with the stretching.
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Yeah I was planning to try some on before buying. Thanks for the info.
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Interested in getting a pair of weird guys. How does the waist sizing on those compare to 511s?
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