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On June 07 2016 23:34 Craton wrote: This is more of a problem where bidirectional cables are being used. These days I'm pretty sure receiving and transmitting is done on separate wires.
Thank you, now I knew where I had to look. And indeed, even though it was a decade ago, your explanation is correct (at least according to wikipedia):
Full-duplex Ethernet connections work by making simultaneous use of two physical twisted pairs inside the same jacket, which are directly connected to each networked device: one pair is for receiving packets, while the other pair is for sending packets. This effectively makes the cable itself a collision-free environment and doubles the maximum total transmission capacity supported by each Ethernet connection.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duplex_(telecommunications)#FULL-DUPLEX https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_over_twisted_pair
The truth was in the cable after all, Thank you! And thanks for the reminder about network topology and multiple programms using the same connection, I think I can put CSMA/CD now where it probably belongs.
edit: I also looked into transmitting over half-duplex cables. A time-duplex does exist, so that devices switch between send and receive in a rythm, but that is handled on a hardware level and appears like a full-duplex for protocols running on it, and thats why CSMA/CD has nothing to do with it on that level, as you mentioned.
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My Geforce GTX 970 fan is making noise when the fan speed is 40% and higher.. I bought the card two months ago, I dont think I could stress the card that much in just two months. Any idea what the problem might be? It is very similar to the sound HDDs make when they are busy, albeit louder. I myself suspected this but the sound only occurs after certain fan speed. Is this something I can just open the case and fix myself maybe?
Besides this the card is working fine, I did not notice any high temperatures than otherwise acceptable, no crashes or blue screens etc.
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Sometimes you just get a dud fan. It's not really indicative of any kind of overstressing or damage. I'm not really sure how a rattling fan compares to a "healthy" fan in terms of likelihood of failure. It'll still cool fine while it's rattling.
Normally you'd RMA the card in this situation and they'd repair it or send you a replacement. Depending on manufacturer, you may be able to cross-ship it. Might be different in Turkey.
You can often change the fan yourself, but opening up the card might void your warranty so check first. I'd search online to see if there are instructions for how to do it.
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I would experiment with a program where you can disable automatic fan control and set the fan speed manually, like "MSI Afterburner" or "NVIDIA Inspector" for example. You might find out that the noise is not the fan. It could be coil whine.
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On June 12 2016 18:22 Ropid wrote: I would experiment with a program where you can disable automatic fan control and set the fan speed manually, like "MSI Afterburner" or "NVIDIA Inspector" for example. You might find out that the noise is not the fan. It could be coil whine.
I have already done this with ASUS GPU Tweak. When it goes above 35% or so the noise starts.
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I'm not sure if this belongs here but I'm trying to port forward my router and I have it properly configured to do so but when I check to see if the ports are open it says they're closed. How do I fix it?
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Probably isn't properly configured.
It might be set up and still disabled. You'd need to provide more information for any troubleshooting: router model, screenshot(s) of port forwarding pages, steps you followed to set it up initially, etc.
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Got it Model:SMCD3GNV
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There is also a reasonable chance that you don't actually have an IPv4 address attached to your Internet account. That was the case for me, if it says DS-Lite or something along the lines somewhere, that means you don't have an IPv4 address, which means that any port forwarding you do with your router is pointless.
If that is the case, you will have to find out how to get an IPv4 address from your internet company, usually it is a 5 € addon. as far as i know that is getting more common now, as there is only a limited amount of IPv4 addresses, and apparently they are starting to run out.
It took me a lot of time to figure that shit out.
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It says I have a WAN IP and WAN IPv6 address. Is this actually mine or is it used by multiple people, similar to a shared pool? Also (largely unrelated question) if I disable getting an IPv4 address will that force my connection to use IPv6?
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Are you sure it's actually not working? A lot of routers have protections against port scanners. I tried my own and it only managed to successfully read 1 port open out of the three I tried (plus an additional 2 configurations of UDP and TCP-only for one of them).
Assuming you've got the right attached device selected (server IP, which is a weird name to call that, but I digress), I'm not seeing anything glaringly wrong.
Are parental controls set? How are you testing this?
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On June 14 2016 08:45 Craton wrote: Are you sure it's actually not working? A lot of routers have protections against port scanners. I tried my own and it only managed to successfully read 1 port open out of the three I tried (plus an additional 2 configurations of UDP and TCP-only for one of them).
Assuming you've got the right attached device selected (server IP, which is a weird name to call that, but I digress), I'm not seeing anything glaringly wrong.
Are parental controls set? How are you testing this? I just used an online port scanner and it says they're all closed
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Currently have a 2500k @ 4ghz and a GTX 770, I want to upgrade to be able to play Overwatch at 144fps in 1080p. Any of you guys have an insight on whether my CPU can handle 144fps, and if so, what GPU would I need to buy to basically not dip below 144fps?
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I did a speed test on my computer and my tablet which use the same connection. My tablet speed was roughly 10x faster. I've felt my computer internet slow down at times recently for no apparent reason. Slow dl speeds, can't connect to steam sometimes. Ran full scans on windows defender and mbytes but nothing was found. What else can I do? Thanks.
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My family has been having internet problems for the longest time with the wifi always going out intermittently it seemed. My dad is convinced our ISP isn't giving him the high-speed internet we've been paying for, and calls them like once a week to complain that they're short-changing us, and has been calling them for a few years now with internet problems. I assumed he had done it before, but apparently he hasn't actually tested the connection directly via ethernet to the modem. So I tested it directly on my laptop with ethernet and was getting 60-75mbs speed, which is what we're paying for. However, when I disconnect the ethernet from the modem/router (netgear cg3000d) and used wifi while being right next to it, the connection drops substantially to single digit speed. Any idea on what might be happening and how I can fix this? I can understand not getting full speed on wifi, but single digit mbs when right next to the modem/router seems very low and is causing problems.
Also, I feel bad for not testing it myself earlier. I might have saved some customer service operators the hassle of my dad calling them and complaining.
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I see a lot of complains on Google about that router's wifi. You can try to upgrade the firmware if you haven't already and make sure the wireless security isn't on WEP.
Simplest solution is get a wireless access point, which connects via ethernet and then broadcasts a signal that devices can connect to in lieu of the router. They'll run you about $25 to 100 depending on what you've got. I use this in my apartment to boost the signal to my bedroom from the far corner of my living room (there's a ton of interference since I'm in a highrise).
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Thanks man. That sounds like a great idea. I'll run it past my dad and probably test this out. I'm thinking there's probably a lot of interference around the modem/router that's causing the wifi to run terrible, as it's in the basement and my dad has a lot of electronics and phones next to it too.
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If you tested the wifi while right next to it, the problem likely isn't caused by interference. Interference usually manifests as difficulty getting good signal once you move away from it (but not so far that you'd go out of the normal range). Another thing you can try with regards to interference is switching to the 5Ghz band instead of 2.4, but not all devices support that.
There are devices that can measure the activity on a particular frequency to check for interference. Might be a smartphone app.
In my parents house we had issues with coverage growing up, so we eventually moved the router to the first floor instead of the basement. You can also mount an access point on the ceiling to try and help signal get through the floor.
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would i5 6400T (6mb cache, 2.2ghz base (2.8turbo)) be able to run SC2 smoothly? even team games?
EDIT: what about i3 6100T (3mb cache, 3.2ghz dual core)?
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On July 09 2016 05:28 B40 wrote: would i5 6400T (6mb cache, 2.2ghz base (2.8turbo)) be able to run SC2 smoothly? even team games?
EDIT: what about i3 6100T (3mb cache, 3.2ghz dual core)?
They will run of course but depending on how high your settings are. With what GPU? Or just with the IGP?
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