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Netherlands45349 Posts
I do have quite a few background programs such as Steam, Spotify, Discord, Battlenet, Origin and when I run that together with Firefox I already hit the 7-7.5 GB mark on my RAM. I will run memtest sometimetime tommorrow and post results.
The number also don't add up, like if I do a quick scan on the amount of memory used in the resource monitor total and then compare it to the list and do some napkin math they just don't add up to that much, its like there is a process running somewhere thats clogging that I can't see
Edit: , uhm wait do I ahve to calculate "Commit" "Working" etc together? then they may add up together.
+ Show Spoiler +
anyway ill try memtest tomorrow to see, I am not sure what to look for in the diagnostics though but I can prolly google what I need.
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Er, isn't that warning about disk space, not RAM? How much free space do you have on your drive?
According to The Google, it's specifically an error about virtual memory, which is not to be confused with RAM.
Basically, programs request as much RAM as they need from the OS (windows). When there is no more RAM available, Windows will move data from RAM to your HDD/SSD based on some logic (iirc it's based on how long since the memory was last accessed, since presumably the oldest thing is the one least needed right away). This is called the page file. Once that data has been moved, the program that needs more can use it. If you don't have enough disk space there's nowhere for the data to go so data swapping either can't be done at all or gets much slower. There's more going on with virtual memory than just the page file, but I think that's the salient part here.
In short, you probably are running low on disk space or have your page file disabled or shrunk very small.
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Looking for some advice on my audio situation. Right now all I have is two powered monitors, no mic, no headset. What I want to do is keep my powered monitors but also have the option of a headset w/ mic. And I would like to be able to use both the speakers and the headset with my PC & PS4. My concept right now is to have a headphone amp/dac, to which my monitors and phones are both connected, and can be switched between. Then the amp/dac is connected to PS4 by optical, and to my sound card by coaxial. Would this work and what about using a mic for both PC and PS4?
I had in mind something like this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1HE2UH3190
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United Kingdom20154 Posts
Er, isn't that warning about disk space, not RAM?
That one in particular is about memory that would be stored in RAM/VRAM (or virtual memory). Basically it tried to store something in RAM/VRAM, failed, and then crashed because the data was critical. I've seen that error a lot on my own system.
Windows 7 is trash for handling virtual memory nowadays; i've had to make a pretty huge paging file and then leave a lot of margin on my RAM (rarely saying more than 75% used) to avoid daily issues.
Even with huge paging files i've found that programs will instantly outright crash sometimes if i let the physical RAM run out of space which can be challenging with some programs having a lot of memory leak and/or bloating; even with OS on one SSD and a paging file of any size on another SSD the OS won't use it very efficiently.
It's an OS memory management issue, having more RAM mitigates the problem but won't completely remove it
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Netherlands45349 Posts
I cleaned up some of my disk space and it seems to go a lot smoother now, I might get a larger SSD (I have most of my games on a HDD and only my OS on an SSD). (Probably dump WoW on there if the new exapnsion has anything like fucking Dalaran loading screens). Might eventually go to Windows 10 but I am not sure how neccesary it is overall but hopefully it can increase performance?
thanks for the help.
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I don't think you'll see much difference in performance between W7, W8, and W10.
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On July 18 2018 10:17 Doodsmack wrote:Looking for some advice on my audio situation. Right now all I have is two powered monitors, no mic, no headset. What I want to do is keep my powered monitors but also have the option of a headset w/ mic. And I would like to be able to use both the speakers and the headset with my PC & PS4. My concept right now is to have a headphone amp/dac, to which my monitors and phones are both connected, and can be switched between. Then the amp/dac is connected to PS4 by optical, and to my sound card by coaxial. Would this work and what about using a mic for both PC and PS4? I had in mind something like this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1HE2UH3190
I think I need to accomplish this with a dac and/or headphone amp. Anyone have any knowledge?
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Do you know if the SMSL you linked can do headphone out and RCA out at the same time?
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Any reason why the most visited sites like google, amazon etc don't have dark mode? twitch and yt have it and it is very beautiful. I remember that google had dark mode.
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Doesn't mean you can't still make it dark.
https://userstyles.org/styles/browse?search_terms=amazon dark theme
Use something like Stylus for it. "Stylish" got banned for abuse.
[Edit] I'm using Amazon Dark - VisualPlastik with the following added to fix some color issues:
#sims-consolidated-1_feature_div h2, #sims-consolidated-2_feature_div h2, #sims-consolidated-3_feature_div h2 { color: orange !important; }
span.a-profile-name { color: inherit; }
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I have a basic audio question.
I've got a tv with an optical output and a soundbar with a bad optical input. So I need to buy a converter and just run it into another port. I was just wondering if there's any difference in quality if I convert it to coaxial or into analog component.
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How safe is build in overclock in monitors? For example AOC Agon AG271QG (144 hz to 165 hz) or AG352UCG6 (100 hz to 120 hz).
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I see various online reviews complaining about it failing after a period of time. The monitor still works, but you can't use the higher framerate anymore without issues.
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United Kingdom20154 Posts
If it worked well they wouldn't call it an overclock, they'd just call it 165 or 120hz; we have a handful of legit 240hz monitors already. It likely means that they wanted to sell it at 165 or whatever but half of the hardware failed at that setting so they can't do that
I'd recommend treating it like the guaranteed refresh rate for any purchasing decision.
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So, something burned up in one of my PCs. Smell of burned plastic + turned off. Smell test points at it likely being a graphics card or the CLC (which is 6 years old). What's the best/safest way of testing for what's not working?
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United Kingdom20154 Posts
If you're up for it you could take the heatsink off the card and inspect it. Sounds more likely that something burned on the graphics card VRM and that also caused the same symptoms with my friend's PC. When he turned it back on the graphics card VRM caught on fire
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On September 05 2018 12:08 Craton wrote: So, something burned up in one of my PCs. Smell of burned plastic + turned off. Smell test points at it likely being a graphics card or the CLC (which is 6 years old). What's the best/safest way of testing for what's not working?
Does the computer start up at all currently? If not ;
Disconnect your videocard. Connect your VGA/DVI/HDMI to your Motherboard (if possible). Test if the computer is working correctly.
if computer works correcty -> it was the graphics card. if computer acts the same -> it wasn't the graphics card.
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The question is about how to avoid damaging other things moreso than basic troubleshooting steps.
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What exactly do you fear can happen? IMO, the part that is burned won't damage anything else once it is cooled down, so you should be fine to try to start the computer again. The worst that can happen is that the broken part starts burning again, though I doubt that, and if that happens you should be able to notice it fast and turn it off again.
stupid me, you wrote it could be the CLC so you run the risk of overheating the system.
I have no experience with liquid cooling, but I assume that it's mostly the CPU und GPU you are cooling, right? If so, couldn't you disconnect the graphics card and the ATX12V (which powers the CPU) for further troubleshooting? Just an idea, not sure if this helps anything.
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United Kingdom20154 Posts
What exactly do you fear can happen? IMO, the part that is burned won't damage anything else once it is cooled down, so you should be fine to try to start the computer again.
I wrote an example above, my friend had the same thing (smoke smell and system shutdown) and when he turned it back on the graphics card VRM went a little bit on fire.
Those kinds of catastrophic failures are quite rare
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